Athens Has Its Rough Edges, but I Fell in Love With It
Greek history and mythology has had me in a chokehold ever since I watched Horrible Histories after school as a ten-year-old. So Athens has always sat high on my bucket list, and recently I finally had the chance to visit the Greek capital I've dreamed about for years.
The entrance to the Acropolis hill seen from the nearby Philopappos Hill
Even though the Spartans were definitely the better Greeks (sorry Athenians), I didn't mind visiting the birthplace of democracy, even if I still don't entirely know what democracy means, as well as the home of the legendary Parthenon and the Acropolis.
If anything could put Athens above Sparta, it would be its grand architecture and classical aesthetic, which can still be seen today. Nowhere else in Greece lets you catch such a vivid glimpse of civilisation as it was around 400 BC.
However, my visit to Attica wasn't what I expected at all.
Zeus Is Always Watching
As silly as it sounds, considering Greece was the birthplace of the Olympian gods and that it is highly unlikely they were ever real, I felt strangely close to them during my trip. I felt especially connected to Zeus because of the constantly changing weather.
One of the many incredible views seen when walking Mount Hymettus
In summer, Greece is known for relentless heat and the risk of wildfires. Once the colder seasons arrive, the warmth lingers but the skies become unpredictable and storms are far more common.
I visited Athens at the start of October and found myself caught in a powerful thunderstorm that felt as if Zeus himself had created it. The thunder echoed through the valley and lightning lit up the entire sky, making it seem like the son of Cronus was angry with us.
It was a truly eye-opening experience to witness weather like this in a place I had always associated with sunshine.
Greek Countryside Is Closer Than You Think
To truly follow in the footsteps of our Greek ancestors, I wanted to climb a mountain just like I would in Assassin's Creed Odyssey.
A view of Mount Hymettus and the surrounding forests from the foot of the mountain
Athens is surrounded by mountains on three sides and the Saronic Gulf on the fourth, which means it is entirely possible to explore the Athenian countryside and maybe even spot a wolf or a bear.
I decided to hike Mount Hymettus, which rises to 1026 metres on the eastern side of Athens, although there are several other mountains you can choose from. Hymettus offers a mixture of loose, rocky technical terrain higher up and shaded forest paths near the bottom.
Hidden within the forest at the foot of the mountain is the Holy Monastery of Saint John the Forerunner at Kareas, which adds to the atmosphere of the hike, and it is not the only interesting place you will find there.
One of the paths inside the forests at the foot of Mount Hymettus
In the time of the ancient Greeks, caves were used for religious rituals, shelter, and burial, and were often tied to myths and local legends. The caves I discovered along the trail immediately caught my interest, and I found myself trying to imagine what might have taken place inside them all those centuries ago.
To have a truly fulfilling historical trip to Athens, I think it is essential to visit at least one of the nearby mountains. The views alone make it worth the effort, but I would definitely recommend avoiding looking out the bus or car window as you pass through the outskirts of central Athens, as it might take away from the idealised image of the city you have in your head.
Every Place Has Its Rough Areas
Outside of Athens is far from the Ideallic centre that I dreamed about growing up as a child. Every place has its rundown parts but it felt like Athens had more than the typical city.
An aerial view of Athens capturing how big the capital city of Greece actually is.
Places like Omonia, Exarchia, and Victoria Square have often been highlighted as potentially "sketchy" areas, and for good reason, as they struggle with homelessness, graffiti-covered buildings, and a noticeable amount of litter.
Athens is an extremely populated city with over 3.6 million people, and this is very clear in central Athens with its busy roads, crowded paths, and constant movement. The further you travel outside the centre, the quieter and more peaceful it becomes.
However, the issue with going farther afield is that many of the roads are filled with potholes, the pavements are broken and unstable, and the surrounding land is simply not well maintained.
Perikles, the Athenian statesman who initiated Athens' great building programme in the 5th century BC after the Persian Wars, would not be impressed with certain parts of the Greek capital.
A Place You Have To Visit In Your Lifetime
Despite its flaws, I still wholeheartedly believe that Athens is a must-visit destination for anyone who loves history. The incredibly well-preserved ruins in the centre, surrounded by beautiful winding streets, make it unlike anywhere else in the world.
No words are needed. The incredible Parthenon and the reason you must visit Athens.
It is entirely possible to spend three full days exploring everything central Athens has to offer, although your bank account might feel a lot lighter by the end of the trip.
The Acropolis is one of the best-preserved ancient sites still standing today and is absolutely something you need to see at least once in your life. Other major attractions, such as the Ancient Agora and the Temple of Zeus, are all within walking distance of one another, so you never need to venture into the wider, potentially rougher areas of the city if you would rather not.
Surrounding these ancient sites are the stunning neighbourhoods of Plaka, Kolonaki, and Monastiraki, all filled with shops, incredible kebabs, and charming aesthetics.
Don't let people who question how safe Athens is stop you from visiting this incredible city. If you do a bit of research beforehand and book your Acropolis ticket in advance, you will have the trip of a lifetime and absolutely will not regret it.